Double-sided cutters were also out: Their sharp edges pushed painfully into our fingers as we used them. Two sets with handles initially seemed like they’d give us a sturdier grip, but the handles forced testers to grip the cutter with a closed fist, limiting our range of motion and leaving us struggling to turn the cutter in the dough. Flimsier cutters made from thin, malleable metal or plastic easily warped under the pressure of our hands, making lopsided, misshapen biscuits and pierogi. Cutting integrity was a bigger concern, especially when working with elastic, stretchy pierogi dough and wet cream biscuits. Sticking wasn’t an issue all the cutters easily relinquished the doughs, especially when we dipped the ring in flour before cutting (as we usually call for in our recipes). One smaller set missed the 3-inch mark by 1/4 inch, making pierogi that were far too small and overstuffed-a definite problem. Oddly, none of the sets in our lineup hit these sizes on the mark when we measured them ourselves, but as long as they came close (within ⅛ inch), we didn’t dock them points. Though we tried every cutter in each set, most biscuit recipes call for a 2-, 2 1/2-, or 3-inch biscuit cutter. We used the cutters on a buttery biscuits dough, a wetter cream biscuits dough, and an elastic pierogi dough. We tried eight sets, priced from about $10.00 to $60.00, all containing between four and 11 different-size rings. We prefer to use biscuit cutters, round cutting tools with sharp edges that make even cuts and thus produce tall, symmetrical biscuits. But using a makeshift cutter with rounded edges can compress the sides of dough, leading to misshapen biscuits. Crafty home cooks punch out biscuits with old aluminum cans, overturned glasses, and even Mason jar rings.
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